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Due to some domain issues, my website went down the day before the big reveal. SO verry sorry.

Each month the Daring Cooks take on a challenging new recipe to test out abilities and comfort zones. I was granted the honor of hosting the July challenge. I opted to go for one of my own culinary passions - Molecular Cuisine.  Many people are afraid to even broach the subject in the kitchen, or have decided they don't like the cooking style - having never attempted or tried the resulting food.

I chose something that would introduce the Daring Cooks to the style of cooking without requiring expensive tools or exotic ingredients (no chemicals required). An oven or microwave would prepare most of the ingredients.  All you needed that was 'different' - a coffee/herb grinder, or a morter and pestle.

For July, I delved into a fascinating cookbook and pulled out Skate - Traditional Flavors Powdered. This is a dish from Grant Achatz, found in the Alinea cookbook - page 230.I feel this is a good introduction to Molecular Cuisine.  Just a little work and you can make this, the techniques are not very hard and only require a few tools.

DSC_0875.jpg  Onto the recipe:

Skate, Traditional Flavors Powdered - with changes

  • 4 skate wings
  • * Beurre monte
  • * 300g fresh green beans
  • sea salt/kosher salt
  • 1 banana
  • 454g butter - 4 sticks
  • 300g lemons
  • 5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet
  • 150g cilantro
  • 150g parsley
  • 100g dried banana chips
  • 300g spray dried cream powder (or powdered milk)
  • 100g cup minced red onion
  • 200g capers (brined, not in oil)
* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm) * Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

DSC_0830.jpgPowders - prepare ahead of time
caper / onion
lemon powder
cilantro/parsley powder
'brown butter' powder

Powders once dried, all powders should be pulsed in a coffee grinder/spice mill/morter and pestle then passed through a chinois or fine mesh strainer.

Citrus powder
300g lemons
1000g simple syrup
5g citric acid/vitamin c tablet

Zest 300g of lemons (10.6 oz), remove the pith from the zest and poach in the simple syrup three times. dry with paper towels and move to a dehydrating tray. 130 for 12 hours. pulse the zest in a coffee grinder, pass through chinois, and mix with citric acid/vitamin C powder. If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 8 to 10 minutes at medium powder. Once dried, follow the other instructions.

DSC_0816.jpgCilantro/parsley powder
150g cilantro
150g parsley

Blanch the parsley in boiling saltwater for 1 second, submerge the leaves in ice water for 3 minutes. Dry on paper towels and place on dehydrator tray. 130 for 12 hours. grind and pass through chinois. If you do not have a dehydrator, place in microwave for 30 seconds, turn over leaves and microwave for another thirty seconds. They should be dry by now, pulse in coffee grinder, pass through chinois and reserve.

Onion powder
100g cup minced red onions

dehydrate - 130 for 12 hours microwave at medium power for 20 minutes. pulse in grinder, pass through chinois

DSC_0827.jpgCaper powder
200g capers (get the ones packed in brine/vinegar)

Run the capers under cold water for two minutes to remove some of the brine. dry on paper towels and dehydrate for 12 hours at 130 degrees. microwave instructions are unclear. Dry them as much a possible with paper towels, the microwave on medium for 1 minute. Check the moisture content and stir them. repeat for 30 second intervals until they are dry. If you use this method, pleas post the time needed to dry the capers. Once dry, pulse and sift the powder. Mix it with the onion powder.

DSC_0828.jpgBrown Butter powder
100g Dried banana chips (unsweetened if possible - many are coated in honey - the freeze dried ones would be brilliant)
300g spray dried cream powder

If you cannot find the cream powder, you can substitute Bob's red mill non fat dry milk powder, or even carnation instant milk powder. The substitutions will alter the flavor a little, but you will still get the general idea. preheat the oven to 350 degrees, sift the cream powder into a fine layer on a silpat or on parchment. bake for 4 minutes, then remove for heat. If it bakes for too long, it will burn.

Be very cautious with all powders in the oven. They all go from browned to burnt in a few seconds. grind the banana chips in a coffee grinder and mix with the toasted cream powder. Pass this through a chinois and reserve.

* For green beans, slice each beans into very thin rounds (2 mm)
* Beurre Monte - 454g butter (4 sticks, 1 pound) cubed and cold, 60g water. In a small saucepan, bring the water to a boil, remove from heat and whisk in the butter 1 cube at a time. This should from an emulsion. Keep this heated, but under 195 degrees. The emulsion will not break - this is your poaching liquid.

Skate
Prepare the skate - 50G v shaped cuts are recommended Bring 100g water, 100g beurre monte, and green bean rounds to a boil over high heat. Cook until the water has evaporated (about 3 minutes), when the pan is almost dry, remove it from heat and season with 3g salt.

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Bring 300g water and 300g beurre monte to simmer over medium heat, add skate wings and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and flip the wing over and let rest in pan for two more minutes. Transfer to warming tray lined with parchment and season with 5 grams of fine sea salt.

Plating
Take the tip of a small spoon and make a small mound of the citrus powder, the onion-caper powder, and the cilantro parsley-powder. Swirl these around in a hurricane type pattern. I found that it is easier, and you get finer lines if you lightly shake the plate to flatten out the mounds, then swirl the spoon through it to get the pattern.

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Peel the remaining banana into very think slices (3mm) fan three slices on the plate, place green beans on top and place skate wing portion on top. On the tall edge, sprinkle the brown butter powder.

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Daring Cooks - June

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Better late then never - been behind in posts...
The June challenge was to make Gyoza (Japanese dumplings) - Hosted by Jen from use real butter

This was a fun challenge, I steamed a batch, and tried to burn my house down with the other.  It's difficult to have a conversation with 4 people when attempting to cook.  flames flew fromthe pan and almost got my arm.

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I made a filling of pork, chicken, wasabi, cabbage, onion, carrots, and garlic.  The wrappers were easy to make.  On the seond batch of wrappers, I added a tablespoon of powdered wasabi to the dough. Next time I will add two or three.  You could smell the wasabi, but it was not very present in the dough.

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That's the batch that tried to kill me.  Make sure you reduce the heat when you add liquid to a tightly packed pan that is searing with oil.  I made a total mess with that one. I think I'll stick with steaming from now on.
for the dipping sauce, I used soy, rice wine vinegar, and sriracha.  It was quite pleasant.

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Gnocchi

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The Daring Bakers have spawned a new sibling - The Daring Cooks.  Similar concept, different method. For the first challenge, we attacked ricotta cheese. To be more specific - Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi.

This was chosen as the first challenge, and the recipe comes from The Zuni Cafe Cookbook.

Recipe: 
1 pound (454 grams/16 ounces) fresh ricotta (2 cups)
2 large cold eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter
2 or 3 fresh sage leaves, or a few pinches of freshly grated nutmeg, or a few pinches of chopped lemon zest (all optional)
½ ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated (about ¼ cup very lightly packed)
about ¼ teaspoon salt (a little more if using kosher salt)
all-purpose flour for forming the gnocchi

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Forming the gnocchi was similar to making potato or butternut squash gnocchi, but the moisture differences were noticeable.  The recipe came together quickly, all in one bowl.  I pressed the ricotta, then mixed in the eggs, cheese, butter, nutmeg, and salt.  Initially, I tried the larger form that was recommended, but I did not like the amount that you got each bite.

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I rolled mine smaller and dusted them with flour.  One thing I noticed.  If you let them sit for more then ten minutes, they may stick together.  If this happens, you will need to reshape them.  If they are cooked with exposed edges, they will explode in the water and fall apart.

By themselves in a butter sauce, the cheese and nutmeg shine through.  The texture is very moist and reminiscent of ricotta cheese.  For dinner, I decided to toss the first ones in an almond pesto, and the second pile in a chicken mole sauce. I think I burnt part of the sauce reduction because the sauce was a little on the bitter side.

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Even the small ones were filling. Neither of us finished our dinner.

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This page is a archive of recent entries in the Daring Cooks category.

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