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Red Velvet Cupcakes

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DSC_0361.jpgIn the past few months, I've gotten into baking cupcakes.  Lots and lots of cupcakes. So far, I think my favorite recipe would be Red Velvet.  They are light and fluffy, and the ermine icing is to die for.  I chose to skip the expected cream cheese icing, and went with the traditional ermine icing (boiled milk). This icing is different from the heavy cream cheese icing that most people are used to.

Ermine butter-cream icing is similar to it's French, Swiss, and Italian counterparts, but instead of using egg yolks or egg whites to create the emulsion, it uses boiled milk and flour to create a suspension.  It's similar to a roux, but the lack of a fatty medium, prevents it from technically being called a roux.

How is it different?  Well, French and Italian butter-creams are smooth, very very smooth.  The ermine icing is a little more dense, but the suspension of the milk and flour makes it unexpectedly smooth, while having a bit of texture at the same time.  The recipe is a classic that has fallen out of use in the last 20 to 30 years. I personally think the ermine icing is superior to the heavy and dense cream cheese icing you typically see on red velvet cake.  I feel the cupcakes should have an icing that compliments the airiness of the cake.  not one that overpowers the cake and brings so much strong flavor to a delicate cupcake.

The Neighbors LOVED these cupcakes and have even asked for them to be made into a birthday cake.  I brought them to work up in DC and I think I was almost mugged on the metro getting to my building.

The Icing can be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator or icebox, just make sure to bring it to room temperature and beat it in the mixer before you pipe the icing out.  The consistency of the icing is made to be piped.  It held up quite nicely with the two tips I used.

The Red Velvet recipe comes from the cookbook: Martha Stewart's Cupcakes The cupcakes are light and fluffy, there is a nice chocolate flavor in them, and, with the addition of food coloring, they come out nice and red.  I tried making the cupcakes without the food coloring first, but the cocoa powder and vinegar gave it a weak, almost sickly, brownish red color.  There was no taste difference with the addition of the food coloring, so I say go for it.   Side Note - This cookbook is amazing.  I don't care if you hate Martha - the recipes in here are gold

DSC_0343.jpg  Recipe after the break

chocolatechip.jpgEveryone likes chocolate chip cookies, I'm a fan of the thin and crispy ones, my wife likes the chewy ones, and our son likes anything you give him.  I've seen Alton Brown make thin and crispy ones, I've made toll house cookies, and every variation across the board.  A few months ago i set out to make the perfect chocolate cookies for us.  I estimate 20 to 25 batches of cookies were baked to come up with the one the family like the most.


Brown sugar makes a chewy cookie, white sugar makes a thin, crispy cookie.  With this recipe, i have opted for more white sugar for a thin edge, and some brown sugar to keep part of the cookie thick and chewy. I chose to use baking powder and baking soda to keep the cookie from spreading too much, and the addition of the baking powder adds a subtle salty taste to the final product, which everyone has enjoyed.


The liquor adds a nice hint of flavor to the cookie that can be hard to identify, but it also serves another purpose.  The additional liquid helps the spread, and ensures crispy edges with their high sugar content.  Rum is a great flavor, but amaretto works nicely, as well as grand mariner.  Ricard was noticable by me, but the taste testers didn't mind the additional bitter hint.  I think I will try sambuca next time.  Mint liquors would also be interesting to play with.


Why parchment paper? Well, there is nothing better for cookies.  I have tried non stick pans, i have tried silpat. Use parchment paper!  The cookies never stick to it, and you can use it over and over.  I have two scoops to dish out the cookies.  If you do not have a scooper, you can use a tablespoon to drop the cookies on the parchment paper lined pans.  The scoop I use to make chocolate truffles is perfect for small, children size, cookies.  And the larger scoop makes nine sized adult cookies.


Let the cookies rest for 5 minutes on the cookie sheet, then transfer them to a cooking rack.  The edges are crispy, and the centers are nice and chewy

 

If you decide to use this recipe, go ahead and tell me how they came out, and what you used in them.  Perhaps I will try adding some bacon next time I make them ...

The April 2009 challenge is hosted by Jenny from Jenny Bakes. She has chosen Abbey's Infamous Cheesecake as the challenge.

I thought about this for a while and asked some friends what type of cheesecake they would like.  I offered up two options.  Chocolate passion fruit or honey lemon lavender.
 
DSC_0065.jpgI checked Whole Foods and they actually had passion fruit.  It was the first time in two years I have found actual passion fruit in Richmond.  Usually you can only find a juice blend.  The actual fruit is much tarter then the juice - which is cut with apple juice.  This worked very nicely with the bittersweet chocolate.  To alter the texture of the cheesecake, I used half cream cheese and half marscarpone cheese.  The cheesecake was quite dense and solid.  It cut very well, and held its shape.  The crust stayed dry and had a really good texture.  Three quarters of the cheesecake was distributed to neighbors.  I Think I gave too much away.

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Since the cheesecake came together so easily, I decided to make a second one.  This time I made a honey lavender lemon cheesecake. I decided to experiment with this one. I made a lemon shortbread crust.  This was one of the easiest crusts I have ever made.  I made a little on the thick side, and I think that was a good idea.  Once cooked, the crust had a wonderful lemon taste, with the dry crumb of a shortbread cookie.  I used some lemon curd I had sitting in the ice box, mixed it with a small amount of the cheesecake mixture to prevent a bad memory from reoccurring.  I once made a cheesecake with a lemon curd swirl - when  I unmolded it, all the swirls separated and it fell apart.  Cooked cheesecake and liquid lemon curd. Adding some of the batter lets the lemon curd fully incorporate/cook with the rest of the cheesecake, while still keeping the swirl look.

DSC_0402.jpgThis cheesecake held its shape quite well, but was 100% creamier then the chocolate one.  It even won over the neighbor who said that lavender would taste like cleaner.  She loved it.  I think it is the best cheesecake I have ever made.  My wife even liked it, and she usually doesn't like cheesecake.

Unfortunately, I forgot take any pictures of the finished product


English Muffins

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DSC_0146.jpgBy request of on of Jen's friends, I'm going to make a post about my English muffins.  In an attempt to save some money, I started making English muffins for breakfast.  I wasn't sure how they would turn out at first, but they are quite easy to make, and can be completed in one day, which is always nice.

I'm using a recipe from A Bread Bakers Apprentice.  It has a handful of ingredients, and is very easy to complete.  I've made three batches of muffins, and they get easier each time.  No special equipment is needed, well.. you will need a cast iron griddle or skillet to cook them, besides that, it's all straight forward.

Ingredients are flour, butter, milk, yeast, salt, sugar, and corn meal.

DSC_0047.jpgThe recipe makes six large English muffins, the tops and bottoms are crispy, while the center is soft and full of nooks and crannies (if you open them correctly).  The corn meal is used for dusting, otherwise, they would never release from the parchment paper when you go to cook them.

To cook them - warm up a griddle and oven to 350 degrees.  Once it is up to temperature, drop three of the muffins on the griddle and cook for seven to eight minutes.  Flip them over and cook fro the same amount of time.  When you put them on the griddle, you may hear they crackle and pop, this is normal and nothing to be concerned about. The goal is to get a nice dark crust on the bottom before flipping.  They will come to a medium brown in two to three minutes, but may take up to eight minutes to get the nice rich brown you are looking for.  They are very resilient to burning, so if you keep an eye out for the color after 5 minutes, you should not have any problems.

DSC_0124.jpgOnce cooked on both sides, place the muffins in the oven for 8 minutes to insure the centers are cooked through.  Then cool on a rack until room temperature.  We keep ours chilled, and fork separate them before toasting in the morning.  To get the expected texture when toasting, you really need to use  fork to separate them, otherwise, you get a uniform smooth cut with no where for the butter/lemon curd/cheese/etc to go.

These can easily be completed in an afternoon.  When the little chef gets a little bigger, I think he would have fun helping me make these.  Since everything is done on the griddle, they are easy to shape, drop, and flip.

DSC_0130.jpgRecipe after the break ---
This months Daring Bakers challenge was Tulies. These are very thin and crispy cookies that can be bent and curved fresh out of the oven.  Once set, they can support a little weight and will retain their shape.  The recipe was simple, and it produced a thin crispy cookie that could be formed about 60% of the time.

DSC_0304.jpgThis month's challenge is brought to us by Karen of Bake My Day and Zorra of 1x umruehren bitte aka Kochtopf. They have chosen Tuiles from The Chocolate Book by Angélique Schmeink and Nougatine and Chocolate Tuiles from Michel Roux.

The cookies are very fragile, and if they are too thin, they break when forming.  If they are too thick, they are hard to chew, but very easy to mold.  Getting the balance between the two were a little hard, but I got about 55% that allowed me to form them.

After breaking and shattering countless thin crisps, I got a  little disenfranchised with these cookies.  But, I needed to finish the challenge.  We were supposed to make some topping, dip, soup, or other accompaniment.

DSC_0310.jpg My first attempt had a dollop of lemon curd, then topped with fresh meringue, a little caramel syrup and lime zest.  The second attempt was ice cream based.  Ice cream was way too cold.  My wife liked the meringue, I think it would have been better with a whipped cream, but we did not have any at the time.

DSC_0322.jpgThe rest of the cookies will be served with a port wine-chocolate dipping sauce. 



Better late then never - right?

DSC_0378.jpgThis holiday season, we decided to bake most of our gifts.  I made lemon sable cookies, biscotti, stolen, cinnamon raisin bread, marshmallows, brioche, and some Portuguese sweet bread. Everything turned out well.
 
The Lemon Sable cookies were first.  They were slightly lemony, with hints saltiness and sugar.  They had the perfect balance of sandiness and chewy.
 
Next was the biscotti.  There were multiple batches of these Italian twice baked cookies.  The Little chef helped me make a few batches of what he calls "Mixer cookies"
 
We made honey lavender-lemon, mixed fruit (cranberries, cherries, and raisins) and spice, chocolate chocolate, and chocolate chip.  The little guy loves these cookies.  These were based on the Dorie Greenspan recipe - I really like the addition of corn meal in the recipe.  It adds a nice touch of texture that is so often missing from these cookies.

DSC_0327.jpgFor the stolen, I soaked some zante currants, golden raisins, tart cherries, and craisins in Myers rum and ginger alcohol.  With the addition of cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, cloves, and some Navan liquor made the stolen very moist and flavorful.  They rose nicely, and when dusted with powdered sugar, looked very festive.

DSC_0321.jpgEverything else was straight forward.  The brioche was the best thing I made this season.  It's hard to screw up bread with a pound of butter and 5 eggs.  We had that at New Years brunch at Piet's place, and for the worlds best French toast the next day.  I'll be making the brioche again in the next few weeks, it smells so good when baking, and when slightly toasted or grilled, so much flavor comes out.

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Well, this month's Daring Bakers challenge was a Caramel Cake with Caramel Icing.  The end product was a dense and moist cake with a slightly salty icing.  I added some extra salt to the icing to enhance the caramel flavors.  These were a big hit with the parents, and the toddlers who decided to try them.

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Second, we have chocolate orange cupcakes with a cinnamon peanut-butter icing. These were 'normal' cupcakes in size and texture. The Caramel cupcakes were tiny little things.  I cooked them in the 'fancy wrappers' and they released from the sides like the were supposed to.  I decided to remove them from the wrappers for service.  They were delicate and petite, but the density of the cake made up for the size.  They were deceptively decadent and filling.

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Third up were the vegan cupcakes with chocolate icing.  The icing was the most interesting -- there seem to be two types of vegan icing.  One is margarine based, so it is similar to buttercream, the other is like an overworked glaze.  It is the exact recipe for a cocoa based corn starch pudding, cooked an whipped until it thickens well past the pudding stage, then cut with some oil. This lightens the recipe and makes for a very pleasant texture for icing.

All the cupcakes were a hit at the party.

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This months challenge had us making browned butter, dark caramel, and a few other things that can be challenging to a baker. I had to make the caramel twice.  The first attempt was  a careless venture on my part.  It all crystalized, so I opted to start over, instead of trying to cool and save it.  The second attempt was perfect, and is still toping hot chocolate, and being used to flavor marshmallows and whipped cream!  

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The browned butter was simple.  I opted to strain it through the chinois, then drip it through some coffee filters.  This got all of the browned bits out, and left me with a rich, nutty, and smooth browned butter.  Both if these added a complex flavor to the recipe, hinting savory bits along with the cloyingly sweet sugar.  The addition of salt to the icing made a huge difference, and the flecks of Maldon salt gave a surprising burst of flavor when bitten into.

This months challenge was presented by Dolores of Chronicles in Culinary Curiosity and  Alex of Blondie and Brownie and Jenny of Foray of Food. Shuna Fish Lydon's Caramel Cake with Caramelized Butter Frosting was the recipe we followed.  I really enjoyed the challenge, an will make this cake again.

The little chef was very interested in what was going on. He loves the stand mixer and pretty much any thing else you can plug in.  He helped me make a few of the items, and then we made some snack mix for him.  He had a blast with the recipes.

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TKO's

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TKO's - better known as the Thomas Keller Oreo

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I've meant to make these for quite a long time.  I just forgot about them.  These are grown up cookies.  They are very rich, they have a deep chocolate flavor, and they are a little salty.

They have a nice, deep chocolate flavor, they are a little sandy, buttery, and oh so good. The adults and kids in the neighborhood loved the cookies,  I made two flavors for the filling.  The white ones were straight white chocolate, and the red centers were white chocolate with dried raspberries.

These were not that hard to make -- the ingredient list was short, and it makes a bunch of cookies.  I made two batches of these - one for a party, and a second batch for us and the neighborhood families.  I used raspberry powder for the filling, I Added it with the cream and it worked really well. The color was nice, and the flavor was very strong.

TKO's
from The Essence of Chocolate
makes about 3 dozen sandwich cookies

Cookie:
    • 1 1/2 cups plus 3 Tbsp all purpose flour
    • 3/4 cup sugar
    • 3/4 cup plus 1 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder (dutch process if you have it)
    • 1/2 tsp baking soda
    • 1 1/2 tsp salt
    • 15 Tbsp unsalted butter, cut into 3/4" cubes, at room temperature
Filling:
    • 1/2 cup heavy cream
    • 8 oz. white chocolate, chopped

1. For the Filling: In a small pan, bring the cream to a boil. Remove from heat and add the chocolate. Let stand for 1 minute, then whisk to melt the chocolate until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl, and let stand for 6 hours to thicken up.

2. For the Cookies: In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, cocoa, baking soda, and salt, and mix on low speed. With the mixer running, add the butter, a piece at a time. The mixture will be dry and sandy at first, but over 2 minutes, will form pebble-sie pieces that start to cling together. Stop the mixer and transfer the dough to your board.

3. Preheat oven to 350F. Seperate dough into 2 pieces. Roll each piece of dough between 2 pieces of plastic wrap or parchment paper to 1/8" inch thick. Using a fluted cutter, cut into rounds. Scraps can be pieced together and rolled out again. Place 1/2" apart on baking sheets lined with Silpat liners or parchment paper.
DSC_0051.jpg4. Bake for 12-15 minutes, rotating halfway through baking. Remove and cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then transfer cookies to a cooling rack. Cool completely.

5. To Assemble: Lightly whip the white chocolate cream to aerate and fluff up. Transfer filling to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4" plain tip. Pipe about 1 1/2 tsp in the center of half the cookies. Top with another cookie to sandwich. Gently press down until the cream comes to the edges.

6. Cookies can be stored in a container for up to 3 days. Loosely cover

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My blog has always been a hobby.  I guess getting notice that you will be unemployed in two months will trigger odd things in you.  I've decided to start the task of getting Sketchy's Kitchen official.  I don't know if I'll ever make enough money to do it as my job, but a business license would allow me to sell things by demand on the web and to local business and families. It's for two reasons. One, I love to cook, and I end up giving away half of everything I make. Two - I need something to fixate on so I don't stress about looking for another job.

For those interested, I am an Oracle DBA, Remedy ARS programmer, Cold Fusion and PHP coder, and I have a lot of experience with project management, SPC/Metric Reporting, and change management.

OK -- back to baking, cooking, and trying to start a business!  On Friday afternoon we went down to the county govt. facility and started the process to turn me into a home based internet/retail bakery.  There are TONS of forms.  I'm still finding ones I need to fill out.  After getting the run around, we had the Federal Tax ID, and we went upstairs to the zoning office.  they asked me i we had an food safety inspection yet.  I told them no, and they sent me downstairs and across the street.  When I showed up across the street, they told me there was no such office here. 

Well, we gave up at that point.  I had things to do for the dinner we were having at Piet's place the next night. I had cakes to bake, pastries to cook, bread to bake.  Yep, I buried myself in flour and sugar.  I kept myself very busy, and slightly intoxicated.  I think I managed to not get a shot of the bread.  It was a sourdough boule with crushed cocoa nibs, and a touch of cayenne pepper.  The Chocolate flavor is very minimal, the nibs have an almost nutty taste to them.

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I made the cake on Saturday.  The cake looked great at our house.  I loaded it into a cake transport thingie, and we drove across town for dinner.  As we were driving I told Jen that she was not a good cake driver.  Fast accelerations, sharp breaking, fast turns.  As we were driving, the cake began to lose it's height.  It reminded me of a cake my mother made when I was a kid.  It looked great at first, but as the day went on it started to look a little sad.  Well, Jen said she thought the cake looked better, she liked the stripes.  I explained that the cake was not supposed to be zebra striped.  Between the stops and the starts, you could watch the top of the cake slide around the cake holder.  I was so depressed about this.

By the time we arrived at the house I no longer had a cake. It was The Thing.  a glob of icing and three discs of cake. I tried to make it look presentable, but there was no hope for that anymore.  We took half the cake home, the next day I went to cut a slice for dinner - total disaster.  It was like a train wreck.  Three layers, all exposed.  I took them, added some heavy cream and turned them into a ... paste.. in the food processor.  Cake and icing, ground into a mush and spooned into ramekins.  They taste pretty good with the caramel whipped cream.  Bus as far as cakes go: spectacular defeat with the assistance of Jen's driving.

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OK -- back to starting a business.  I spoke with Veronica - she's already done this!  She found the phonenumber to the State Agriculture department.  I called them and stated that I am trying to start a home bakery.  They put some documentation in the mail.  Once I fill that out, I call them back and they will see if I need an inspection (I have to pay for the inspection if they show up or not).  At first, Jen and I were worried that I couldn't get a license because of our cats, but we are pretty sure we can.  We are not catering, so the rules are a little more lax in that regard.

Once I figure out all the forms that are needed to get setup in VA, I will post about them.  The process is a little taxing,especially if you are in a bad mood. But keep at it.
DSC_0092.jpgTo continue with my Molecular Gastronomy posts, this one will address the texture of a commonly used item: cheese.  Parmigiano-Reggiano to be precise.  I found a great, and simple, recipe from the 1998 - 2002 El Bulli Cookbook.  It involves cheese, a grater, egg whites, silpat mats, and a rolling pin.  Most people are familiar with the traditional parmesan crisp.  Baked cheese, sometimes it has a lacy appearance.  This recipe is just as easy to make, but you get a more refined, delicate, crisp.

When buying cheese for this - look for the imported Parmesan.  In the US, we have very lax rules for cheese naming.  In europe, Parmigiano-Reggiano is regulated under the name Parmesan.  American copies of the cheese have to be sold as pamesello italiano, or some other name.  Pamesello italiano is what Kraft sells as Parmesan.  American Parmesan has a larger sodium content, is mechanically pressed, and lacks the complex flavors that are achieved by the long time in the brine solution.

DSC_0085.jpgParmigiano Crisps

Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
egg whites

preheat oven to 340 degrees (convection)

tools needed - 2 silpat mats, microplane grater, rolling pin, and parchment paper.

Shave the cheese with a microplane, add the egg whites and mix with a spatula until the mixture resembles pasty dough.  Transfer this to a silpat and spread evenly across the middle.  Place the second silpat over the paste and evenly spread around with a rolling pin.  You want a very thin, even layer of cheese across the entire silpat.

Place this into a preheated oven and bake for five minutes

Remove from oven and carefully remove the top silpat.  I used an offset spatula to loosen and unstick any cheese that didn't want to release.  Place a sheet of parchment over the cheese and flip over.  Remove the remaining silpat and reduce the oven to 320 degrees (convection).  Place back in the oven and cook for another 4 minutes.  If you do not have convection, you may have to cook this for longer.  You want the entire crisp to brown.  If there are white spots, they will sag after you cut them.

When it is evenly browned, remove the crisp from the oven and cut immediately.  You want them to be long and skinny.  If you wait for the cheese to cool down, it will shatter when you try to cut it.  Once cut, allow the crisps to cool to room temperature on a flat surface. I ended up using a chef's knife for slicing; the pizza wheel didn't do the trick. Serve in a dish or cup that will show off their height.  They stay crisp for a long time. We ran out before they got soggy.


The little guy helped me make them; he ate so many of the crisps. I had to move them so he didn't finish them off.

DSC_0112_JPG.jpgNext time I make these, I might add some smoked Spanish paprika into the mix.  Depending on when you add it, and how thoroughly you incorporate it, you could end up with streaks of dark red in the crisps.

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