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Pumpkin Cheesecake

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Thumbnail image for DSC_0019.jpgI've made this cheesecake a few times over the last 4 years.  The recipe is adapted from Cooks Illustrated, Alton Brown, and my own trials and tribulations.  I've had the top crack, I've tried four or five different crusts, different spices, different types of cream cheese, fresh pumpkin, canned pumpkin, and many other variations.  Everyone has liked the cheesecake, no matter how I make it, and it has been requested many times.

First is the crust.  there are a few schools involving cheesecake crust.  some people used ground up graham crackers and butter.  I prefer to use broken up cracker bits.  You still have some large bits in the crust.  The standard ratio is 33 squares to a stick of butter.  But a plain crust does not stand up to this cheesecake. The cheesecake filling will have cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice in it, so we will mirror the same flavors in the crust.  I prefer to toast any spices when available.  The cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and cardamom can be quickly toasted in a small skillet, then crushed with a mortar and pestle.  This will add a nice bite to the crust and make it showcase the cheesecake that rests upon it.  The extra graham crackers can be used on the side of the cheesecake, sprinkled over the cream topping.

Thumbnail image for DSC_0026.jpgThe trick to the pumpkin is getting the moisture out.  Canned works better then fresh. I hate to admit it, but it has a more consistent flavor, the texture is predictable, and it is easy to get.  The Cooks Illustrated method of whisking the moisture out with paper towels is better then anything I could come up with, so I use that method. the rest is pretty standard; toast and grind the spices, mix appropriately, cook in a bain-marie, cool, chill, slice and eat.

I made a Navan and dark brown sugar cream, and sprinkled some of the crust over it.  The Navan has a nice vanilla flavor, and the sour cream and dark brown sugar add sweetness, but not too much.  For those not familiar with Navan, it's a cognac, from the makers of Grand Mariner.

When preparing the graham topping, take the reserved bits and reheat them in a small pan.  This will make them crunchy, and refresh the flavors of the spices.  It's best done 15 minutes before you are ready to serve. If you don't toast them, your topping will be a little stale and dull.  The speckles in the whipped cream are from the brown sugar.  If you top the cheesecake and let it sit for 3 minutes, most of the specks will liquify and you will not feel them in the cream.  My whipped cream is usually an off white color.  This is from the Navan and the brown sugar.

DSC_0164.jpg
Recipe is below.

Crust:
  • 33 graham cracker squares, crumbled 
  • 4 ounces unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoon sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon cardamom seeds (not pods)
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger.
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 2 allspice berries

Spray the spring-form pan with nonstick spray.
Toast the cloves, cardamom, and allspice in a small pan.  When cooled, grind the spices and combine with other spices.
Crush the graham crackers into small chunks.  This is easily done in a large ziplock bag.  Toss the graham crackers with the spices in a bowl, then add the melted butter and toss till evenly coated.
Press the crumbs into the pan and press down with a cup filled with coins (added weight, requires less effort).  Reserve the left over crackers.

Toast the crust in an oven (325 degrees) for 15 minutes.

Filling:
  • 1 cup  granulated sugar (10 1/3 ounces)
  • 1/3 cup dark brown sugar
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
  • 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
  • 1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
  • 1/2 teaspoon allspice berries
  • 1/4 teaspoon cardamom pods
  • 1/2 teaspoon table salt
  • 1 can (15 ounces) pumpkin
  • 1 1/2 pounds cream cheese
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla paste
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 5 large eggs - room temperature
  • 3/4 cup heavy cream
  • 1/4 cup sour cream
Toast the allspice, cloves and cardamom, grind, and mix with other spices.  Whisk with granulated sugar, salt, and brown sugar, this will throw up a lot of spices, so be ready to sneeze.  

When the crust is in the oven, start drying out the pumpkin.  Spoon it out onto a baking sheet with 2 layers of paper towel covering the entire length of the pan.  Spread the pumpkin out as evenly as you can, then press the liquid out with paper towels.
This may require 2 or three 'volleys' before it is not dripping wet.

Beat the cream cheese in a stand mixer with the paddle attachment.  Once the cream has lightened, add the sugar and mix until incorporated.  Add two eggs, beat until combined, add two more, mix, Add the lemon juice, mix, then add the fifth.  Scrape down between each addition. Add the vanilla paste, sour cream and heavy cream. Mix until combined.

Pour the mixture into the cooled crust and wrap the pan in two layers of tin foil.  Place the pan in a large baking dish and place in the preheated oven.  When the pan is settled, pour in near boiling water to cover 1/2 of the spring-form pan.  Bake at 325 for 90 minutes.

When 90 minutes is up, carefully remove the roasting pan from the oven and place on a cooling rack.  When the water is cooled a little, remove the cheesecake pan and discard the water.  Cool the cheesecake at room temperature for 1 hour, then cool in the refrigerator for 1 day.

When you are ready to serve, dip the pan in very hot water for 15 seconds, the slowly unmold the sides.  Cut the cheesecake with a  heated knife, and wipe it down between cuts.


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This page contains a single entry by sketchy published on November 25, 2007 9:44 PM.

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